Get Fed At Sempre Fame

The food at Sempre Fame demands your mouth's attention.

The food at Sempre Fame demands your mouth's attention.

Barbecue purists are as finicky as they are knowledgeable. These perfectionists of the pit tend to believe that regional separation of meats, sauces and rubs must be diligently maintained—that the sacred art of low-and-slow would crumble if the flavors of different preparations dared to mingle.

Let that outdated barbecue belief system stay in the southern states, for up here in the north, the pit is a party and everyone is invited. Such is the concept at the heart of Sempre Fame Gourmet Grill, BBQ & Catering, an unassuming storefront in Floral Park that houses the best of all that is smoked, sauced and kissed by a flame this side of the Mason Dixon Line.

Opened about five years ago by brothers John and Chris Cavallo, Sempre Fame (translated from Italian as “Always Hungry”) has steadily built a loyal fanbase on a solid foundation of barbecue classics like pulled pork and brisket, but also with uniquely inventive sandwiches and over-the-top burgers as well as insane snacks like deep fried pig skins, smoked fried wings and empanadas (which they obviously dubbed “Semprenadas”).

Bringing it all together is the old-world influence of the Cavallo’s Italian heritage—a love for food that is apparent in the eatery’s creative preparation and adherence to fresh ingredients. And it is precisely that Italian influence that separates Sempre Fame from the rest of the pack.

Pyro Pork lights it up.

Pyro Pork lights it up.

This is particularly true with the Pyro Pork sandwich, which loads pulled pork, bacon and mozzarella on Texas toast with the game-changing cherry pepper sauce, a proprietary concoction that brings just enough heat to the sweet bite of the pulled pork. Viewed in all its glory as a cross-section, the sandwich is thick, lush and dotted with bits of cherry pepper, while the taste itself is almost overwhelmingly deep and dynamic.

Another must order sandwich is the brisket with mozzarella cheese and sautéed onions. Here, it’s the sautéed onions that elevate the sandwich to another flavor level, as the caramelized onions bestow their natural sweetness unto the heartiness and big smoky bite of the brisket. Then there’s the deliciously unhinged sandwich, the Clogs, with smoked brisket layered between chicken cutlets, topped with melted mozzarella and bacon.

Brisket with sauteed onions gleams with possibility.

Brisket with sauteed onions gleams with possibility.

The hand-rolled and seasoned burgers menu is just as intensely Instagram-able as the sandwiches, with offerings like the Slob, a bacon cheeseburger topped with pulled pork and slaw; The Pat, a bacon cheeseburger with hot cherry peppers, cherry pepper sauce, French fries and sautéed onions; and the Burgerito, a burger/burrito marriage with bacon cheeseburger and fresh cut fries in a wrap with barbecue sauce.

Traditional barbecue is far more apparent in Sempre Fame’s platters, with the likes of brisket, smoked corned beef, pulled pork, ribs, marinated grilled chicken and barbecued legs and thighs beaming with the classic hallmarks of the smoked arts—deeply flavored, sticky and sweet, with a robustness that ensures eaters will need to roll themselves out of the restaurant when the meal ends. But even the barbecue mainstays are subject to treatments that aren’t exactly traditional. Case in point is the deep fried ribs, ordered by the half or full rack.

Crispy pork skin, deep fried ribs and no frills mac 'n cheese make the belly sing.

Crispy pork skin, deep fried ribs and no frills mac 'n cheese make the belly sing.

For side dishes, the usual suspects are all available at Sempre Fame, including mac ‘n cheese, buttered corn, collard greens, fresh cut fries, sweet potato fries, cole slaw, potato salad and truly next-level baked beans that one can surely smell from around the corner.

Sempre Fame, 374 Tulip Ave., Floral Park, 516-488-7900, www.semprefame.com